Renaissance of the watch brand Angelus, a jewel of Swiss watchmaking – Paris Match Belgium

No more than 250 pieces per year, extremely limited series and barely ten points of sale in the world: Angelus is both a niche brand and a real phoenix of timekeeping. The great watch crisis of the 1970s actually took its toll on this flagship of Swiss watchmaking. Founded in 1891, the Angelus manufacturer was one of the most influential manufacturers of the 20th century and multiplied innovations in the field of complications: watches that offer more than just a simple time display. From 1925 onwards, the company achieved great success with its single-pusher chronographs and ten years later became one of the pioneers of modern double-pusher chronographs. In 1958, Angelus launched the “Tinkler,” the first waterproof repeating automatic watch, whose production of around a hundred pieces made it a veritable Holy Grail for collectors. Another interesting element to highlight: in 1955, Officine Panerai chose the Angelus 8-Day SF240 caliber to equip its watches destined for the Italian Navy. We can even say that this caliber is the origin of an iconic detail of the current Panerai, the small seconds at 9 o’clock!

The rebirth of Angelus is still quite recent: in 2011, the outstanding movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret relaunched the brand and gave itself several years to develop the new generation of Angelus watches. Then the company returns to its purpose: to be a factory in the truest sense of the word, because it is able to manufacture, produce, assemble, decorate, regulate and test its own calibers in-house. Centuries-old know-how, watchmaking traditions and the most modern techniques come together to create atypical timepieces with a graphic, technical and ultra-dynamic style.

When nature inspires luxury watchmaking: the examples of Breitling and Jaeger-LeCoultre

On the eve of 2024, the heart of Angelus is undoubtedly the neo-retro chronograph Chronodate in satin titanium. Featuring a fern green or storm blue dial that perfectly matches the gray of the metal, the dial is characterized by taut, sloping, beveled lines characteristic of the brand. However, this hyper-modern look has its roots in Angelus’ past, as each model features several signature features of the 1942 Chronodato chronograph: a circular calendar, imposing counters, large Arabic numerals and syringe-shaped hands. The case benefits from a very special modular structure: the chronograph caliber is housed in a carbon composite container, surrounded by a titanium frame.

While the choice of this model is a reminder of the manufacture’s origins, another piece breathes new life into its “doctor’s watch” created in 1960. The Medical Chronograph x Massena LAB stands out from the original in small details and offers the still unique combination of a pulsometer scale and an asthma monitor that displays the breathing rate per minute. In Brussels, the pulse of Angelus can be followed exclusively in Belux at Maison De Greef since December: “Angelus fully embodies the values ​​that we defend,” explain Arnaud and Sacha Wittmann. “Everything is there to interest our loyal clientele of watch connoisseurs and enthusiasts.”